No, it can't be that.
See, steak has always been a go-to meal for my birthday, and I was not a summer baby. I arrived in the midst of a March blizzard. After I showed up, my father spent nearly an entire day shoveling snow. Later on, there were occasional birthdays when we had to shovel out a pit in the snow for the old Weber to sit in. So although the smell and sound of a steak sizzling on the grill reminds me of summer's warmth, I think the root of my interest in it lies somewhere else.
Perhaps it lies in the fact that I've experienced it in so many ways. For years, my favorite way to eat it was with a heaping side of mashed potatoes and a big green salad. It's still a wonderful combination. I've enjoyed it in quesadillas, calzones, tacos, and on sandwiches. However, particularly during the last year or so, I have found a new way to prepare and serve steak that is so incredibly delicious, that it has allowed this sacred cow (er...steer) to soar to new found heights.
Some time ago, my girlfriend bought me a copy of a book called Heat, written by Bill Buford. I'm thinking of writing another post about the book itself, so I won't go into too much detail here. However, I will say that Buford's book served as a springboard for my growing interest in Italian cooking. As part of his desire to immerse himself in all things culinary, Buford traveled to Italy with the intention of living and working there. Among the places he visited was a small village nestled in the Chianti region of Tuscany, called Panzano.
The Chianti region is renowned for its beef. It is home to a famous type of cow, referred to as the Chianina. Nourished by a diet of local grasses, grains, and beans, the meat of the Chianina is said to be some of the finest beef in the world.
As Buford discusses in Heat, The Chianti region is also home to one of the most famous butchers in the world, Dario Cecchini. Dario is a fierce defender of Tuscan culinary traditions, a "food cop" of sorts, and his butcher shop is a repository for old culinary traditions. Although he loves all things Tuscan and all things meaty, he has a particular fondness for beef, and Bisteca (steak). One of his favorite sayings, uttered in his heavily accented English, is
To beef, or not to beef. That is the question.
Through Buford's detailed descriptions of Dario's bisteca preparations, I have shaped my own interpretation of steak that is at least a step above A - 1.
To be sure, producing a steak that is truly Tuscan is a feat beyond the resources of most people. For one, a typical bisteca is 3 to 5 inches thick, and it is grass - fed (which is hard to find in most markets). Additionally, it is cooked over a wood fire on a metal grate, which is a bit more demanding than lighting up a pile of kingsford (or heaven forbid, propane).
However, I don't believe that a faux - Tuscan (perhaps, toscannamericana) experience is out of most people's reach. Below, you'll find a recipe that allows you to explore steak in what could possibly be a new way, without requiring a trip to Italy. Although a nice cut of steak might cost you $10 - $15 bucks, I believe the flavor makes it worth the cost, especially if you're sharing it with friends.
Faux Tuscan Steak with Cannellini Beans, and Arugula Salad
Meat
1 thick, well - marbled cut of steak (porterhouse is good if you can get it), preferably organic and grass -fed.
2 tablespoons of good olive oil
Several hefty pinches of salt
Fresh ground black pepper
Fresh rosemary leaves, chopped (use dried if needed)
Fresh thyme (use dried if needed)
Beans
2 14.5 oz cans cannellini beans
2 shallots, finely chopped
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tablespoons fresh chopped basil
2 tablespoons fresh chopped flat - leaf parsley
1 cup water
2 tablespoons fresh grated Parmesan cheese
salt and pepper to taste
(Serves 4)
Arugula Salad
Fresh, washed arugula greans
2 small bell peppers or one big one (red, orange, or yellow), sliced thinly
5 scallions, chopped.
1 white onion, sliced crosswise and grilled.
2 tomatoes, sliced crosswise and grilled.
Extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar for dressing.
(Serves 4)
To start, remove the steak from the refrigerator 2 hours before grilling. Remove from packaging and set on a plate. Coat it lightly with 1 tablespoon of olive oil on each side. Then cover it with fresh rosemary, thyme, and freshly ground black pepper. Massage the ingredients all over the steak's surface. Then, give each side a very generous sprinkling of sea salt.
The salt coating is a Tuscan tradition. They feel it helps the meat develop a nice crust on the outside as it grills. Often, they will throw fresh herbs (like rosemary) directly into the flames to flavor the smoke and infuse the meat with a smoky, herby taste. The method with the herbs employed here is easier to do, and will result in less waste (important since fresh herbs are pricey).
Let the steak rest, undisturbed, on the counter top for an hour or two. Your goal is to bring it up to room temperature. This allows it to cook more evenly.
You can also prepare the arugula salad ahead of time. Combine the arugula, pepper, and scallion in a bowl, and set in the fridge. Keep chilled until serving time. Now, you can get the rest of your prep work done, and stage your ingredients, as I've done here. Note - the tomato has not been grilled yet. Also, since I have a small gas grill that heats quickly, I've elected to grill the onions ahead of time. The cup contains olive oil and balsamic vinegar dressing, left over from another meal.
45 minutes to serving time
Light the grill, if you're using charcoal. If you're using gas, the timing depends on how big your grill is. The bigger the grill, the longer it will take to come up to temperature. Plan it this way - the steak will take between 10 and 14 minutes to cook. You need a pretty hot grill to sear the meat. So, estimate the time your grill needs to heat up, and add this to the cooking time. Then you'll know when to light 'er up.
10 minutes before you put the steak on the grill
Get a nonstick saucepan. Drizzle 1 tablespoon olive oil in the bottom. Place over medium - high heat. When oil is hot, add shallot and cook until it starts to soften (3 - 5 minutes). Add garlic and cook one minute, until fragrant. Add the beans, liquid and all, to the pot. Add water and herbs. Turn heat to high, bring to a boil, and reduce heat to medium low.
Put the steak on the grill. Place thick onion slices on the grill as well. You want the onions to have nice, dark grill marks on both sides - this will soften them and help bring out the natural sugars.
After about 7 minutes, flip the steak. At this point, add the tomatoes, cut - side down, on the grill.
Add Parmesan cheese to the beans. Some of the water should have boiled off, and you will be left with a nice, thick, sauce - like consistency. Cover and turn the heat to low.
The tomatoes will be cooked in five minutes, remove from the fire and set aside.
The onions will take roughly as long as the steak to cook, depending on how thick you've cut them. When they're nicely browned and feel softened, remove them from the grill too.
When the steak has reached its desired doneness (rare, for me, or, as the Tuscan say, asangre, meaning bloody), remove it from the fire.
Now plate it up!
Dress the salad with oil and vinegar, put it on the plate. Top with grilled onion slices and tomato slice, grill marks facing up.
Spoon the beans onto the plate.
Slice a portion from the steak and place it on top of the beans. The flavors will mingle and they're absolutely delicious.
Enjoy with a beverage of your choice. I recommend wine - preferably red, from the Chianti region if you can get it.
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